Crossing Utah’s High Country
- Jens Brown
- Nov 14
- 4 min read
Updated: Nov 16
Wellington to Soapstone Basin on the Utah Backcountry Discovery Route
Day 7 left the open desert behind and climbed into the high country of the Uinta–Wasatch–Cache National Forest. From Big Hole Wash to Soapstone Basin, the route crossed long forest roads, broad ridgelines, and several passes above 10,000 feet. It was the first full day of timber, cool air, and early autumn color on the Utah BDR.
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From Big Hole Wash to Highway 6
Morning in Big Hole Wash was calm and clear. Temperatures stayed mild, and the desert air carried none of the heat from earlier in the week. We broke camp, made a short run north on Cottonwood Road, and connected with the Green River Cutoff.
This early stretch crossed open benches north of the San Rafael Desert — long, straight miles with wide visibility and no technical features. The surface was firm, dry, and uncomplicated.
At Highway 6, the group split. Selim headed east toward Fort Collins before continuing home to Texas. The rest of us continued west toward the mountains.
Wellington and the Edge of Coal Country
The town of Wellington marked the transition from desert to forest. Founded in 1878, the community grew around the coal seams in the surrounding ridges and the rail line that carried ore west. By the mid-1900s, the valley supported a major coal-washing plant built by United States Steel, processing thousands of tons per day at its peak.
Today the infrastructure remains, but the activity has faded. Old conveyors, rail sidings, and foundations sit quiet on the edge of town.
Argyle Canyon: Climbing into Timber
Argyle Canyon Road began as graded gravel and stayed that way for miles. The climb into the Uinta–Wasatch–Cache National Forest was steady and uncomplicated — no shelf roads, no narrow cuts, and no creek crossings. Vegetation shifted quickly from sage to juniper and then into mixed pine and fir.
This section marked a clear change in the landscape. After six days of redrock and desert, the shaded corridors and cooler air made the transition to high country unmistakable.
Indian Head Mountain and the High Ridges
Above Argyle Canyon, the route followed Indian Head Road along a broad ridgeline. Elevation remained high, and the terrain rolled in long, smooth rises and shallow descents.
Aspen groves showed early signs of fall. Yellows were dominant, with a small amount of orange mixed in. The understory stayed low, allowing clear visibility through the trees. Each crest on the ridgeline opened wide views across central Utah — in some places extending west toward the mountains east of Salt Lake City.
Road conditions remained consistent: wide forest service roads with occasional loose gravel, but nothing technical.
Strawberry Peak to Fruitland
The route continued along the spine of the ridge toward Strawberry Peak. This stretch offered the broadest views of the day — long, uninterrupted panoramas in nearly every direction. The alternating pattern of pine, fir, and aspen continued, and the forest floor stayed open and dry.
We dropped into Fruitland for fuel. Some topped off; others skipped it. The stop was brief, more about logistics than rest. No airing down was needed — the remaining miles were on the same class of forest roads.
Current Creek and Heber Mountain
North of Fruitland, the Utah BDR followed Current Creek and passed the reservoir before climbing again.
The ascent toward Heber Mountain came through a series of gradual switchbacks and long wooded stretches.
Several passes reached or exceeded 10,000 feet.The terrain broadened here: wide ridgelines, older stone formations, and clear evidence of glacial shaping in the upper valleys. The weather stayed mild through the afternoon, with cloud bands collecting on the western horizon but never producing rain.
The road surface remained consistent and well-traveled.
Soapstone Basin and Camp
Late in the day, the route descended into the open meadows of Soapstone Basin. Sheep and cattle grazed freely across state and private parcels — a reminder of the longstanding ranching presence in this area.
From the meadows, the road reentered timber and held a steady grade. A clearing off Soapstone Basin Road offered level ground and enough tree cover for shelter. The soil was dry, the air cool, and the evening settled quickly without wind.
Clouds threatened a light storm, but the sky held. Camp was straightforward, quiet, and unhurried.
Trip Details
Route: Big Hole Wash → Wellington → Argyle Canyon → Indian Head Mountain → Strawberry Peak → Fruitland → Current Creek → Heber Mountain → Soapstone Basin
Distance: ~115–130 miles
Elevation: 5,200 ft to over 10,000 ft
Terrain: Graded dirt, forest service roads, high ridgelines, grazing meadows
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